Carnet de Voyage: Memories of Benin

Today I thought inspired to write a post about Benin. O! Get ready guys because it's going to be a long post! I have so much memories attached to that country. I have thought about doing it many months ago but I could not find times and enough words to write because Benin has been a really important part of my life. I felt like I should take my time to read and write before publishing this post. I went to Benin in the early 90's I was not far to become a teenager when I first went there then later I became a young lady. Being in that country really means a lot to me since I grew up there without my parents and I had to learn so many things in order to become a " complete adult ". The reason why I decided to write about Benin is not because I want to talk about my personal life but the people,the culture, the beauty of the landscape and the memories related to that special African land. . My Carnet de Voyage is about this type of experience it's a Carnet de Voyage of life, of countries, some experiences and Arts. I have lived there and I enjoyed living in Benin! I hope to go back to Cotonou for my next summer vacations. I miss the local dishes and the atmosphere. I simply want to take time to walk once again in the streets of Cotonou and see the people around talking and being busy with their daily activities. The charming ladies driving their motorcycles in the city. Yes! It will remind me of some good times spent there. I can still hear the voices of the ladies selling some "dokos" and some local soups on their tables put along the street with some small lanterns at night. Some customers would simply be sitting there eating and talking to each other.I can still hear the noise of the vespas (a type of motorcycle) driving in the quiet streets and not forgetting on a funny note the "agluzas!" (a type of pork) I got used to them time after time.
The first time that I felt and saw the harmattan, it was in Benin. I am originally from the central part of Africa the weather is different and the "harmattan" was a phenomena that I have never experienced before only in the books until I got there (people told me that dry wind was coming from the Sahara.) Early in the morning the city was completely covered with white fog and it was so chilly! Once out,You could barely see the person coming in front of you. To me, it was such an exciting and funny experience! So clearly in this post I want to talk about the most exciting things to do (What I did) and what to go visit.
Benin is a country in West Africa which was formerly called "Dahomey". The Republic of Benin is bordered by Togo, Nigeria, Niger, Burkina Faso and the Atlantic Ocean on the bottom. The official language is French but on my own experience as far as I remember "Fon" was the language mostly spoken but still people use French for those who do not know how to speak Fon and at school too. Others could speak Yoruba as well.Of course! I had to learn Fon because it was important for me to understand and to speak a little bit. Even though I have lost a lot since I didn't practice it again for years, I can still understand some words (Like for example I can still say good morning: "Afon Gandji a" or goodbye its: "o Dabo" or this one "Evivi gandji" meaning "very good" or "Asea?" meaning "Do you listen?" or "Gosifine!" which means "Get out of my way!" "Awi" I think it's the cat.etc ok! these are just few examples of the words that I can still remember)

Benin on the map of Africa

Benin had originally a kingdom named the "Kingdom of Dahomey". After the French colonization, Benin got its independence the 1rst of August1960. The currency used is the CFA.The country also had a History of slavery trade during the 17th century like many other countries on the African coast. I also remember reading that a certain period the country went through a lot political turmoils but when I was there it was really fine! Things were changing and my friends recently told me that Cotonou has changed a lot after I left. They told me there are so many constructions everyday in the city and it is getting bigger and better than before.

the port of Cotonou

I used to live in Cotonou the active city of the country because of its economic and politic activities. However many people make the confusion between Porto Novo and Cotonou being the capital city and I did too. The fact that Porto Novo is a quiet city compared to Cotonou and the fact that the government is in Cotonou may probably explains the reason why we think this way but do not get confused! Porto Novo is definitely the capital city of Benin. According to Wikipedia in the city of Cotonou you will see the ocean because it lies between the Atlantic Ocean and a lake. This statement is true! I remember most of the weekends in the afternoon with my host family we used to spend our afternoon at the "beach" actually it was not really a beach but the ocean because there is a huge difference when I compared the beach of my country and the one in Cotonou. The waves are big and strong. I guess people who like surfing will find their happiness on these waves! Yes it is definitely the real Atlantic ocean.We were there for picnic, to also play on the sand and the water but we needed to be really careful.

What can I recommend you to do for fun in Cotonou as a tourist? Well! First You should book a room in a nice hotel. There are many of them with different prices. It will be good to have a tour guide. The people are nice in general.

Take a time to go to the beach you will like it! You will relax on the sand and see the coconut trees! You can eat some of them if you want (wink)

the beach

There are good tearooms in the city such as "La Caravelle", "Les Delices" "Maison Rouge" and many others (It has probably changed since I left the country for years but don't worry you will find good ones) You won't be disappointed because the bakery and pastry are fined and so well done there. If you want to eat traditional and local dishes you can go to good restaurants in the city. Here is a web link about the Beninese gastronomy: http://www.recettes-cuisine-afrique.info/?Benin

If you like artistic works museums you will find them also there are some monuments to see. If you want to have fun, in this case instead of taking a taxi every time, try to take the "zemidjan (s)" which is a moto taxi. I and my friends had so much fun with it and it is cheap and fast!(Smiling) The first time that I tried it, I was scared but later I got used to the zemidjans.

you can see the zemidjans with men wearing yellow blouse (people call them kekenon!)

If you are into religion a lot, then you can visit the cathedral "Notre Dame" where the statue of the virgin Mary cried some real blood tears (if somebody has more details about this event and want to share it please drop them in the comment box I will really appreciate it). I used to go to this cathedral on Sunday too. I remember that the train used to cross the city at this area. You can also go to the big market called "Dantokpa" you can buy whatever you want but there are also some supermarkets in the city if you want specific things or food. You can go to the artisanal village where they sell some nice African Arts like handcrafts and many other things and activities in the city. Don't forget to buy some postal cards and some souvenirs! I like to do it too.

Cathedral "Notre Dame des Apotres" in Cotonou

The mysteries, the History of this country, the stories told by people, superstition tradition and many things like that make that place really special. Just thinking about it I always remember a book that I read there. The book was entitled "L'Arbre Fetiche" (The Fetish Tree) written by Jean Pliya ( I like this author I also read another book that he wrote it was a playwright the title was "La Secretaire Particuliere" It was so funny and interesting! I even remember some students did the play at my high school.) Ok! Back to my thoughts: Now if you read the book entitled "L'Arbre Fetiche" you will understand my point and you will be taken into the universe of the country itself. For instance, around Christmas and new year period I remember there were some groups of children wearing masks and dancing in the streets of the city with some drums singing "Caletta! caletta!" I think it's a tradition and probably still happens. Everybody in the streets had some little fireworks I did like that atmosphere a lot!

Jean Pliya's book

I also remember that at a certain period of the year like "out of the blue" adult people wearing some black torn and old clothes came out of nowhere and run between people everywhere in the streets and markets (Sometimes they wear colorful clothes). Then you could see the people around running away escaping from them running there and there saying these men were some "walking deads" they were called "Egungun" something like that and that if you look at them you would die. I heard that it was a tradition but I was thrilled and scared to death because I have never heard stories like that. I didn't understand either but I got used to it later with time and I knew whenever I saw them coming I had to avoid them as much as possible. A classmate told me later that he never believed they were real "walking deads" He thought that it was just a way to scare people and he told me that surprisingly one of them asked him for water because he was thirsty (Then tell me guys how is it possible that a walking dead could ask for water to drink?) Like seriously??! Then I started to think differently about these so called "Walking deads" but seriously guys if they are comedians I mean they were really excellent in the play because it looked so real and it was scary!

Recently I checked the news about the "Egunguns" I read on an article that one of them was arrested and kept at a police station. Really!? A walking dead kept at a police station? Ok! This is where I still get confused about this phenomena but if you know something about it please drop the comment in box below I really want to understand what it is. To tell the truth I am still in a questioning mode: Are they real or false? However I can never think about going close to them and try to see their faces or closely stare at them because I don't know what is going to happen to me after. Let's change the subject...

With my host family we used to run at night around the Etoile Rouge where many people were jogging as well. We were living somewhere not far from the cathedral St Jean (St John) and Gbegamey. I was a student at a boarding school named "College Pere Aupiais". You can visit this school if you want. It was one of the best in the city I don't know about now but I guess it is still the same.

"Francis Aupiais" the high school was named after him

So, during classes I stayed at the dorm. I was living with my host family during the holidays and during my vacations I was going back home or to another country with my family who came to pick me up. I remember a weekend with my host family we went out of Cotonou to Ouidah a little city on the coast of the Atlantic Ocean. I recommend you to go to visit Ouidah.There,You will visit a Fort built by Portuguese people There is a long story related to it. If you know the darkest part of the History of Africa, you will know that slavery was done on most of the coasts of the continent and Ouidah being a city on the coast of Benin, the slave trade happened in that area. My feeling once there was so heartbreaking and emotional at the same time. You could still hear our ancestors 'voices who were forcibly deported crying in the empty huts. I guess their spirits were still there that is why I could hear their voices and I had some goose bumps. If you are African or if you have some African roots you will probably understand my point. It is something to read the History book and it is another thing to live what the books say. That experience you cannot explain but it stays deep inside of you forever. At a certain point of the long trip (that the slaves did by feet for days), there is a type of huge gate with columns and it was written "The door of No return" and I saw the strong Atlantic Ocean where most of the big ships that transported our ancestors were waiting to put them all and left the continent. That part was the most moving and heartbreaking step. As a young African I could not say why and how but I could have some tears falling from my eyes because I understood that there was no coming back. They were gone forever to suffer in some unknown lands.

"The Door of No return" in Ouidah. The slaves were leaving their native land through this door forever

The Temple of Pythons

I could hear the people (the slaves) crying from the ocean. Once again I had some goose bumps because hearing the wild waves of the ocean hitting the shore mixed with the sound of their sad voices hurt me so much and it gave me some mixed feelings. Then suddenly some scenes of the movie "Roots" came back in my mind. Therefore, I was either angry of the History which is normal because I could not understand why my people were treated this way and at the same time I had a deep feeling of sadness because there was no way to take them back and the events and damages were already done but all in all it was an important experience.
Later We went to visit the museum of Ouidah and the temple of pythons. I didn't go inside I didnt feel strong to try this experience I was scare but I remember something that the touristic guide was saying about these pythons. I think they were sacred and protected on purpose and kept by some special people something like that (If you know the exact meaning of the temple of pythons and the story related to it please feel free to drop the explanations in the comments box below I will really appreciate it. Thank you!) You also know that the festival of voodoo takes place there. I didn't attend it...Now you know what to do in Ouidah I shared my old memories.

The Fort in Ouidah

the pythons of Ouidah

If you want to know more about the city of Ouidah and the story of these pythons check out this web link below
http://www.museeouidah.org/HistoryOfOuidah.htm
Back to me being a student in a private board school named college Pere Aupiais. It was a catholic school situated in the area of Cadjehoun or I think "Haie Vive" and....Patte d'oie (something like that) It has been a while! We wore the "kaki" uniform and our standard was "Ora et Labora" which means in latin "pray and work hard." like study hard you see what I mean? Every Sunday we (me and the other students living at the dorm too during the school year) were going to pray at the cathedral "Bon Pasteur" (The good Pastor) We had many activities in my high school such as some different clubs etc. I was in the English club and I like my teachers so much!!! Mr Sewagnon and Ms Attolou Aimee were my English teachers really they were the best! La Haie Vive was a really good area with nice fancy houses.

The lake village Ganvie

Another of my tourist trip was Ganvie! I also recommend you to go to visit Ganvie. It is a lake village built by the Tofinou people on the Lake Nokoue. I remember that when I went there the man who took us there (the tour guide) told us that the Tofinou people were escaping from the slave trades supported by another tribe from Dahomey. To be safe, they built a village on the lake and lived there for years away from the shore.That Dahomey tribe who were after them, had a religious or superstitious about entering the water therefore they could not catch them. As a people who live on the river their main economic activities beside tourism are fishing and farm fishing. I remember seeing little schools, cemeteries on the water I even saw a church I mean a total life on the river! We ate some local dishes at a restaurant on the water. It was an exciting experience! The people were so nice they welcomed us with warmth and love. They looked happy to see us visiting their village and you could tell that they were used to see tourists coming to their place (My mum and my sister did the same trip years later They really like it!) One of the tourist in our group lost his shoe in the water as we were getting back in the "pirogue" (the traditional little boat that we use in Africa) There is no translation for pirogue unfortunately but this is a picture of it.

Women on the pirogue (the main mean of transportation in Ganvie)

So the young man lost one of his shoe in the water. As he was trying to sit back in the pirogue, suddenly one of his shoes fell and went down in the river instantly a little boy of Ganvie jumped in the deep water stayed there for like more than 10 minutes. We thought something happened to him but then he went out triumphantly with a smile on his face and with the shoe on his hand so we were all impressed and everybody applauded him for his bold and kind act. The man told us that the child was looking for the shoe as much as he could because they are really loyal people. He also told us that in the day the people of Ganvie were going on earth for selling things and fishes at a certain time of the day before night come they were already on their way back to the lake village. They were so independent of the earthly life and I liked it a lot! I even bought some souvenirs from there before leaving the lake village. My last year at the College Pere Aupiais there was an international competition for all the students of the French speaking countries in the world organized by RFI (Radio France Internationale). We were supposed to write an inspiring story. I participated and I wrote my trip to Ganvie. Unfortunately I didn't win they sent me a letter to thank me for my participation. There were so many students of other countries with different interesting stories. However the best thing that I kept with me was the fact that my teacher helped me to write and I had his total support. I was proud of me trying something different. To me the trip to Ganvie was definitely inspiring...You want to know more about visiting Ganvie click on this web link here: http://www.amusingplanet.com/2013/12/ganvie-village-on-lake.html

You can go to Abomey! Yes! go to visit the historical museum and the royal palaces of Abomey where were staying the 12 kings. Abomey was the former capital of the kingdom of Dahomey and you will be amazed by its History. Abomey is on the list of the World Heritage sites in Africa. You will learn about the different kings who bravely protected the land . Those kings such as king Behanzin (You probably heard about him), king Guezo and many others. I will put some links about this special city if you want to know more about it

City of Abomey

the temple in Abomey

Here is the link: http://www.africanworldheritagesites.org/cultural-places/ancient-sub-saharan-civilisations/palaces-of-abomey.html

you can also watch it in this youtube video to have an idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XinLxUEcYbU

Je vous parle de mon experience du Benin dans les videos suivantes:

Video 2 est la suivante mais j'ai le reste dans ma chaine youtube ou vous les retrouverai: Posh Girl

Another of my tourist trip was going to Porto Novo the capital city of Benin. I cannot say a lot about Porto Novo because I went there only once and we went to eat in a restaurant. we stayed the whole day in a type of hotel to entertained ourselves therefore I cannot share a lot about the city I am sorry... But! You can go there and see by yourself and have your own experience. Porto Novo is definitely way different than Cotonou. As we were driving around to the hotel I saw some places which still had the colonial style.

Another place to go: Discover the "Pendjari National Park" to see the wildlife! Be adventurous! Here is the web link if you want to have an idea of this park: http://www.pendjari.net/

Here is a touristic website in case you want to visit Benin and plan your trip in advance: http://www.africa.com/benin/travel/

In Benin people are really talented like people of Africa in general. You can see the artisanal works (handcraft Arts etc You know I like handcraft Art) and buy some of their master pieces.
All in all you have an idea of Benin and you can now think about going there and visit the country. You won't be disappointed people are warm and nice! Now I think that I said everything! I will conclude this post with nice music from some Beninese musicians especially my favorite and talented one: Angelique Kidjo! She is internationally known and she even won a Grammy Award! You know my passion for music how I like it! so sit back do like me relax and enjoy! Have fun!

PS: For those who wants to say something or share a trip to Benin you can drop your comments on the box below and any questions as well. I will gladly reply to them if I can. Thank you!

Angelique Kidjo "Agolo"